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Average Customer Review:
( 73 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
24 of 24 found the following review helpful:
Great product to finally do away with fiberglass wrapSep 10, 2010
By King Tut
I used this to wrap the header and downpipe on my 2005 Subaru. Works great doesn't itch while you rub against it while installing the parts on the car. Keeps heat where it belongs, in the pipes. A great buy at a reasonable price. Step into the 21st century. It does fray easily on the edges so be careful when wrapping stuff. Also a note this and any wraps for exhaust parts do smoke upon first start up. Fiberglass wraps smoke for about 2-3 days on and off again and smell really bad. This stuff literally smoked for 15min and hasn't since, the smell was not as lingering or pungent.
20 of 21 found the following review helpful:
Titanium Exhaust Wrap - An Improvement Over Traditional DEIOct 17, 2011
I bought DEI titanium wrap for some downpipes that connect to the turbos on my car. I only purchased 15' to give it a try and was really pleased with the flexibility of the material. As other reviewers have commented, it frays easily, so you have to be slow and careful when working with it around sharp edges that may snag the wrap.
I had never used any other exhaust wrap before, so to an extent, I was spoiled by how flexible this stuff is. After I ran out of 15', I mistakenly bought the legacy DEI exhaust wrap that is fiberglass. I tried to use it the same way I had with the titanium, and it was much less flexible. It tended to not do so well hugging pipes that had diameter transitions. In fact, they recommend you soak the fiberglass wrap in water prior to installation. For this reason, I would recommend the titanium exhaust wrap on any pipes that had curves and/or diameter changes.
The only downside that I noticed to the titanium wrap is how porous it seems compared to the fiberglass. I believe the titanium wrap is more flexible because overall each layer is thinner and the weave of the fabric is not as tight, which allows it to bend more easily. The only real way to tell a performance difference is to measure both the engine compartment temperatures and then possibly the surface of the materials themselves to see which traps in my heat.
Also, I'm not entirely sure stainless steel ties are necessary. I bought a generic spool of 100' wire I think fence repair wire or something) from a hardware store that serves all sorts of purposes as it is thick enough to maintain it's shape and can hold a lot of weight, like brake calipers, hub assemblies off axles, etc. Plus, you can wrap sections around the exhaust fabric and then grab the ends with pliers and twist. This will pull the wire firmly around the pipe like a twisty-tie. Those SS zip ties are a couple of bucks each, and when you make multiple independent passes with the exhaust wrap from different angles, that can really get expensive.
9 of 9 found the following review helpful:
Great stuffApr 23, 2013
Didn't realize this had fiberglass in it (probably due to my inability to read all directions). I ended up getting this on the couch, the carpet, the coffee table, and myself. Found out it had fiberglass in it about 30 minutes later, itching really bad. Made the girlfriend mad because she sat on the couch and got it on her. Nothing a shower can't take care of. I would not recommend wrapping headers/pipes inside.
Other than that, these hold up very well. Awesome that I don't have to soak them in water first. Dropped the ambient temps under the hood by quite a bit. Here's a great tip: Start at the end of the pipe and wrap a layer or two around itself with the wrap - then clamp it down (or use SS ties). Proceed to wrap pipes, leaving about a 1/4-1/2" overlap. About every 2-3 feet, squeeze the wrap tight around the pipe - much like you're giving someone an Indian burn on their arm... make sure you're doing it the right direction.
9 of 11 found the following review helpful:
Great So Far - and a Few TipsSep 30, 2012
By Gentile Joe
First, I purchased waaay too much of this stuff. I bought 100' and 35' would have been fine to wrap my set of shorty headers - so keep that in mind. I can't imagine trying to wrap anything like headers after they're installed unless you have some kind of street-rod with a ton of room. Turbo down pipes and other single pipes would probably be easier to do in place. After installation, I let the engine idle for about 20 minutes with the hood open and the *vehicle outside* - occasionally revving the engine to let the wrap do it's "smoking thing". After about 30-40 minutes of idling and light driving, all of the smoking and smell had gone away - and the next day there was no smell - which is nice. One tip: While letting the wrap "smoke off" remember to shut off your ventilation system in your car so that you don't pull the smoke into your interior - it's stinky stuff. Wrapping is pretty easy once you get the hang of it but expect to ruin a few feet while figuring it all out. I'd be a good idea to cut a few feet and practice. To keep the ends from fraying while working with the wrap, take some thin CA glue (super glue - but use the GOOD stuff you buy at a hobby shop or online, not the crap you get from a hardware store) and swipe a line across the point where you want to cut the wrap. The glue (if it's thin-consistency glue) will spread into the fibers and cure leaving a line about 3/8" wide. Cut through the tape in the middle of the glue stripe and you can wrap without it fraying (I found that surgical or EMT scissors worked the best for cutting). The CA glue will burn off later and not leave any residue or discoloration. In regards to getting the metal ties tight; you can either buy a tool that does this, or, use a needle-nose pliers and a flat-bladed screwdriver. To use the latter technique, feed the "tail" of the tie through the locking mechanism and pull it snug. Cut the tail off leaving about a one inch length sticking out. Take the pliers, grip the very end of the tail and twist, rolling the strip around the tip of the pliers. Now, take your flat-bladed screwdriver and place the blade *parallel* to the tie strip, one edge of the blade in the "notch" at the back of the locking mechanism and the other edge braced against the strip rolled around the end of the pliers. At this point, you can either add additional twist to the pliers or pry against the plier's tips to simultaneously pull that *last* little bit of tie through the locking mechanism while holding the locking mechanism in place to achieve a very tight closure. BTW, the metal zip ties you can pick up and Lowe's work perfectly and are MUCH cheaper than the "header wrap ties" that are marketed.
At this point I'm pleased and I hope it lasts a long time. It's good looking stuff. As far as heat, I haven't noticed any more heat that I did from the stock heat-shielded manifolds - which is a good thing ;)
4 of 4 found the following review helpful:
This stuff really works!Mar 07, 2014
By Hib Halverson
Exhaust wrap or "header wrap" has been around since the 1980s. The product is intended to be wrapped around exhaust pipes, then secured with a stainless steel "tie wrap" device. The goal is decreased heat radiation and increased engine performance.
WIth a road car, the most desirable property of exhaust wrap is that it decreases heat radiation from exhaust system parts. Wrapping exhaust headers and exhaust pipes lowers underhood and undercar temperatures. Some manufacturers of exhaust wrap claim a 50% reduction in underhood temperature, but I think that’s under "ideal conditions". In real world applications, the temperature reduction is not going to consistently be 50% but, it will, nevertheless, be significant. I have exhaust wrap on the undercar parts of the exhaust systems on two Corvettes and installed on a third for this review. in all three cases, wrapping the exhaust systems decreased the amount of heat radiated from the exhaust through the floor and into the interior. With one of these cars, my ‘71 Big-Block hot rod which is not air conditioned, on a hot day, having the exhaust wrapped makes the difference between an uncomfortable interior and a tolerable interior.
The other advantage of exhaust wrap, cited by most manufacturers of the product, is increased engine performance. They claim that by wrapping the exhaust, more heat is retained in the exhaust flow such that the exhaust gases remain less dense. Exhaust flow is said to be higher because of that. Exhaust wrap makers claim the increased exhaust flow increases torque output. Under certain conditions I suspect that is true, but perhaps not under all conditions. It’s safe to say that engines having some degree of overlap in their camshaft profiles may experience a higher level of exhaust scavenging when exhaust flow is higher due to the pipes being wrapped. That would tend to increase performance on an open exhaust racing engine. While exhaust wrap vendors all claim this potential for increased performance, in the real world, you’d have to do some accurate testing with a dynamometer to corroborate those claims. That kind of testing was outside the budget of this review. When I install exhaust wrap, I’m mainly interested in the comfort benefit, i.e.: decreasing heat radiating into the interior. If there’s also a performance benefit in a street high-performance application, I’ll take that, too.
Conventional exhaust wrap products are made of woven glass fiber. To install glass fiber exhaust wraps, you wet the material such that its water-soaked but not dripping wet, then you wrap the exhaust pipe in question with 1/4-1/2-in overlap. Most exhaust wrap makers sell special stainless steel locking ties which are used to retain the wrap on the pipe. Once it dries, some makers of exhaust wrap suggest a spray-on silicon coating which seals the wrap and increases its longevity.
Exhaust wrap can be used on uncoated short- or long-tube header sets as well as on exhaust system parts under the car. Do not use exhaust wrap on header sets or exhaust pipes made of mild steel which have been metallic ceramic coated. The combination of metallic-ceramic coating the the exhaust wrap insulates so well that the mild steel gets too hot and disintegrates. With mild steel exhaust parts you have to choose: coating or wrapping. Typically, I coat headers and exhaust manifolds and wrap head pipes and exhaust pipes. It's not recommended to wrap catalytic converters because of their need to radiate heat to prevent damage to the converter.
The latest exhaust wrap product to come to market is from heat insulation specialist Design Engineering, Inc. It's called "Titanium" Exhaust Wrap. The product contains no significant amount of metallic titanium. The brand name "Titanium," according to DEI spokesperson, Dan Stark, was picked because of the product's high strength and light weight. What makes DEI's Titanium Exhaust Wrap unique is that it is not made of glass fibers. It is made of fibrous lava rock, which is both lighter and even more tolerant of high temperature than glass. At first, I was a bit skeptical of lava rock fiber but, after talking more with Dan Stark, I'm a believer. In short, DEI has lava rock mined in large loads, crushed and melted at very high temperatures. It is then stranded and spooled. The fibers are then added to other fibers to make threads and, finally, it's woven into DEIs special fabric which is then made into strips of exhaust wrap. T I did not have the ability to test its additional 600°F of temperature tolerance, but I'll take DEI's word that its temperature limit for direct heat is 1800°F, up from the glass fiber product's 1200°F maximum. titanium Wrap weighs less than other exhaust wrap products.
The best characteristics of DEI's Titanium exhaust wrap are: 1) you don't have to wet it prior to installation. That makes the installation process far less messy, and 2) you don't need to seal it with a high-temperature silicone spray to get best results. In fact DEI says not to use any sealer on Titanium Wrap. All you do is wrap the pipe, secure the wrap with DEI's stainless locking ties then go drive the car. As with all exhaust wraps, during the first one or two heat cycles, the stuff smokes a bit but after that, you don't know it's there unless you look under the car.
I used two 25-foot rolls of 2-in. Titanium Exhaust Wrap (PN 100131) to wrap the exhaust system on a 2012 Z06. The main reason for doing this is my ongoing project to reduce heat radiation into the car's interior. Much more so that my C5 Z06, the '12 has a problem with heat radiation off the undercar parts of the exhaust and into the interior. Wrapping the pipes aft of the cats and wrapping the mid-section all the way back to the connection at the mufflers made for a noticeable decrease in temperature of the center console inside the car. I'm very happy with the results from my Titanium Exhaust Wrap project and plan to replace the existing wrap on my other two cars' exhaust systems with this DEI product. I gave it five stars because it works well and was easy to install.
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